Men’s Fashion Week SS20: London + Paris
LFWM newcomer JordanLuca made an impressive catwalk debut when it presented its captivating ‘Maladetta Primavera’ collection, with Mr. Smith Hair Lead Declan Sheils delivering on the ‘elevated festival rave’ brief in response. On medium-length hair, Declan used tongs to enhance natural movement and created a dry separated texture with Mr. Smith Sea Salt Spray and Mr. Smith Texture Spray. Accessories including slides and barrette clips held the hair in place, and small ponytails were finished with Mr. Smith Hairspray. Mr. Smith Sea Salt Spray added texture to short hair, with some models sporting extensions braided into tails at the back of the head. On Afro hair, Mr. Smith Serum was used to hydrate before hair was twisted and rolled into dreadlocks.
A decidedly futuristic presentation by LA-based designer Yixi Chen’s label C2H4 asked: “how does fashion navigate a post-human era?” and comprised three categories inspired by fictional dystopian social hierarchy.
PARIS: Maison Kitsuné
Blurring the lines between feminine and masculine, the new Maison Kitsuné collection featured unexpected fabric combinations, colour contrasts and a quirky edge, worn by a diverse mix of models – both male and female.
Hair lead Benjamin Muller was inspired by the collection’s “feelings of bliss and positive energy” to produce looks for both guys and girls. Key words for the men were “fresh”, “young” and “individual” which meant that the personality of each model’s hair was maintained. Benjamin used Mr. Smith Texture Spray to link each look together, and played with Mr. Smith High Hold Hairspray to add more height and volume. Female models were given a “messy, undone cool girl” look, starting with a messy side part before adding Mr. Smith Texture Spray (all over the length and the top of head) and rough drying of the hair added texture. A one inch-sized curling iron produced a random texture and hair was then pulled across the face, placed behind the ear and secured with Mr. Smith High Hold Hairspray.
PARIS: Ludovic de Saint Sernin
In our fourth season working with young Parisian designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin we didn’t need to look too far for inspiration; with his SS20 collection entitled ‘Wet ‘n’ Wild’ the brief was simply wet. Set around a conceptual pool atop the Pompidou Centre, the show featured clinging sweaters, skimpy shorts and see-through organza, presenting an aesthetic that was at once sexy, edgy and utterly rule-breaking.
Hair lead Louis Ghewy first washed models’ hair with Mr. Smith Stimulating Shampoo and Conditioner before using Mr. Smith The Foundation for hold and a generous amount of Mr. Smith Serum to create separation. Next, Ghewy used cover clips to set the hair in a shape before removing them in the line-up. Once the clips were removed, hair was finished with water spray before models went down the runway.
PARIS: Angus Chiang
Taiwanese designer Angus Chiang’s ‘Love Hits the Songs’ collection, drew inspiration from music idols of the 2000s to present a minimal, casual style with plenty of spaghetti straps, rock-n-roll flares and oversized shoulder silhouettes. Hair lead Chiao Chenet’s styling first saw hair separated into random sections before using the Mr. Smith Shaper to create texture and definition. Hair was then twisted into little messy buns and fixed at the ends with Mr. Smith High Hold Hairspray to achieve a Punk-style look.
For its fifth season, the Swedish/Kurdish menswear label Namacheko drew its inspiration from cult 1982 American film Koyaanisqatsi to present a colourful collection that featured outerwear and tees blended with design elements of subtle whimsy in the fusion of embellishments and textured prints, tailored pieces and vivid “basket weaving” looks which added a sense of playfulness.
Hair lead Michaël Delmas styled male models with slicked-back hair and a raw and real natural texture, mostly working with Mr. Smith Mousse and hands. Hair was pushed back and dried with a hair net to get a flat, imperfect result. Female models donned ponytails tied back in the middle; Mr. Smith Sea Salt Spray gave hair a soft gritty texture, while wisps of baby hair maintained the “undone” feeling. Mr. Smith Hairspray was used to finish and set the look before the models hit the runway.
PARIS: Andrea Crews
Experimental Parisian art collective, Andrea Crews unveiled its forthcoming men’s collection with the same boundary-pushing approach it has become known for. Entitled ‘Momentum’ the SS20 collection featured tie-dye and mismatched prints, asymmetrical silhouettes and floral-inspired designs as well as upcycled looks that drew on repurposed materials and pieces from clothing and everyday items.
For the ‘Momentum’ show at Palais de Tokyo, Hair lead Chiao Chenet created individual looks from natural ‘undone’ hair to finger waves, enhancing the natural texture of the hair by using Mr. Smith The Foundation and Mr. Smith Sea Salt Spray.